Amman’s downtown decades-old bookstalls struggle to survive

AMMAN — Ahmad Kayed, once a 10-year-old immigrant newsboy in the 1950s, has been a vendor at one of downtown Amman’s last five surviving bookstalls for nearly half a century.

In 1978, the Amman Municipality established over 20 bookstalls to support the Jordan Press Foundation through rent revenue, and to provide Amman’s newspaper hawkers, like Kayed, with set stalls to sell newspapers, magazines and books, according to locals. 

Kayed spoke with The Jordan Times about what he described as his “life’s calling”.

“Promoting culture and joy among Amman’s people is what my past four decades at this humble bookstall have been about,” the 82-year-old said. 

“Sometimes we give away books for free if someone doesn’t have enough money to buy one,” he added. 

Amro, Kayed’s son, has been working at this bookstall by his father’s side for the past 20 years. 

“It’s our family heritage. All my uncles, cousins and brothers have worked here at some point,” he told The Jordan Times. 

Amro noted that sales have notably declined since the rise of e-books and audio-books. 

“Things have definitely been hard these past few years, but we still have customers who appreciate the beauty of paper and the smell of ink as an essential part of the reading experience,” he added. 

Downtown book vendor Sami Abu Hossan is a retired accountant who took over his father’s bookstall following his passing two years ago.

Sharing his father’s story, Abu Hassan said that his father, Ahmed, migrated from Bethlehem to Jordan, where he started working as a newsboy on his bicycle until he later become a bookstall vendor. 

After a long career selling books, Ahmed passed away at the age of 87, after which his son took up the family business.

“I love this place. I love it I tell you,” Abu Hossen, who finds himself “at home” between his books, told The Jordan Times.

“My father kept this bookstall open all year long, whether it’s sunny or raining, and I intend to do the same,” he added. 

Abu Hossen also pointed out that keeping the bookstall open hasn’t been easy with the increasing availability of free e-books. 

He said that he does not have customers but, rather, “loyal friends” that he and his late father have made.

“That’s our secret to surviving in the business for 44 years, despite rising rents and declining sales,” he added.

Spenser Rapone, an American historian doing an intensive Arabic course in Amman, has been regularly frequenting Abu Hossen’s bookstall. 

“It’s the right place to obtain rare and important books on the history of modern Arab thought,” he told The Jordan Times. 

However, books aren’t the only motive behind Rapone’s weekly visits. 

“There’s something about the spirit of this place which feels very welcoming,” he said. 

“It’s an authentic cultural experience; everyone I meet here is intellectually engaged. I also get a chance to practise my Arabic and learn first-hand about Jordan’s history and culture from its people,” Rapone continued. 

Riyad Barhomi, another long-time book vendor, noted that the difficult economic situation has made buying books less of a priority for most people.

“I have been sitting here since morning and I haven’t sold any books yet,” he told The Jordan Times. 

On days when he has no customers, Barhomi spends his time reading or conversing with passersby. 

He noted that reading has had a very special place in his heart since childhood.

“It’s enlightening; it opens you up to the world,” Barhomi said. 

“The humanitarian experience that I have gained from years of working behind this bookstall is also important. I have had the chance to meet so many different types of people and learn a lot from them,” he added.

57-year-old Jamal Zahran from Amman described his daily visits to these bookstalls as a “warm embrace”.

“I have known these vendors since I was 10 years old. When I look at their bookstalls, I see a life filled with the beautiful memories of words I’ve read and friends I’ve made,” he told The Jordan Times. 

“I come here every day, even if I don’t want to buy anything, just to make sure the place is still here,” Zahran added. 

He also noted these bookstalls are related to the history of Amman’s culture and the press, which require a concerted effort from relevant institutions to support and preserve them. 

The prices of the books sold at these bookstalls range between JD1 and JD4, except for rare books, which are sold for JD10 or more, according to vendors.